Circuit Wiring Solution: car

Showing posts with label car. Show all posts

Monday, November 17, 2014

Car Wireless Alarm Circuit Diagram

This FM radio-controlled anti- annexation anxiety can be acclimated with any agent accepting 6- to 12-volt DC accumulation system. The mini VHF, FM transmitter is adapted in the agent at night back it is anchored in the car balustrade or car park. The receiver assemblage with CXA1019, a distinct IC-based FM radio module, which is advisedly accessible in the bazaar at reasonable rate, is kept inside. Receiver is acquainted to the transmitters frequency. Back the transmitter is on and the signals are actuality accustomed by FM radio receiver, no hissing babble is accessible at the achievement of receiver. Appropriately transistor T2 (BC548) does not conduct. This after-effects in the broadcast disciplinarian transistor T3 accepting its advanced abject bent via 10k resistor R5 and the broadcast gets energised.

Back an burglar tries to drive the car and takes it a few metres abroad from the car porch, the radio articulation amid the car (transmitter) and anxiety (receiver) is broken. As a aftereffect FM radio bore gene-rates hissing noise. Hissing AC signals are accompanying to broadcast switching circ- uit via audio transformer. These AC signals are rectified and filtered by diode D1 and capacitor C8, and the consistent absolute DC voltage provides a advanced bent to transistor T2. Appropriately transistor T2 conducts, and it pulls the abject of broadcast disciplinarian transistor T3 to arena level.

The broadcast appropriately gets de-activated and the anxiety affiliated via N/C contacts of broadcast is switched on. If, by chance, the burglar finds out about the wireless anxiety and disconnects the transmitter from battery, still alien anxiety charcoal activated because in the absence of signal, the receiver continues to aftermath hissing babble at its output. So the burglar anxiety is fool-proof and awful reliable.

Tuesday, November 4, 2014

Car Alarm Sound Booster

For car alarms, emphasis should be put on hearing the audible alert and identifying it as belonging to your ‘wheels’. Unfortunately, modern car alarm systems seem to have more or less the same alarm sound especially if they are from the same brand. Also, to comply with legal noise restrictions, the alarm sound is not always loud enough to be heard if the car is parked down the road.

The circuit shown here is designed to help boost the alarm sound by also activating the car’s horn(s) when the alarm goes off.Internally the car alarm system often provides a signal that activates the (optional) engine immobilizer and/or volume (ultrasound) sensors. This signal usually goes Low upon system triggering and high again when the alarm system is deactivated.

Car Alarm Sound Booster Circuit Diagram :

The alarm activation signal is fed to the circuit through D1. When in idle state, T1’s gate is High and consequently the FET conducts, keeping power FET T2 firmly switched of f. When the system gets an active low signal, T1 switches of f allowing timing capacitor C2 to charge via R2. About 15 seconds later, when the voltage across C2 is high enough, T2 starts to conduct and relay RE1 is energized. This, in turn, provides the required path for the ‘lights flashing’ signal to energize RE2 and feed battery power to the car’s horn(s).

When the alarm system is turned off the activation signal returns to High. T1 starts to con-duct and rapidly discharges C2 via R3. T2 is then cut off and RE1 is de-energized. Diode D2 suppresses back EMF from RE1.The circuit draws less than 2 mA when idling. When activated the circuit’s current consumption is virtually that of the RE1 coil.RE1 is any simple SPST or SPDT relay, capable of switching about 0.5 A (at 12 V). The coil rating is for 12 VDC and a current requirement as low as you can find. Fuse F1 should be a slow blow type and rated about twice RE1’s coil current.

The BS170 in position T2 can sink a continuous current of about 0.5 A. However, a value of 1.2 A pulsed is specified by Fairchild for their devices. To keep the FET’s d-s current due to C2 discharging within safe limits, R2 may be increased, C2 decreased and R3 increased, all proportionally. A factor of 2 will keep the FET out of harm’s way with maybe a slight change in the 15-second delay and the sensitivity of the circuit.C1 is used as a smoothing capacitor and F2 should be rated in accordance with the horn(s) maximum current draw.

Caution.The installation and use of this circuit may be subject to legal restrictions in your country, state or area.

Sunday, September 14, 2014

2 x 32W DUAL BRIDGE CAR RADIO AMPLIFIER TDA7393

Features:

HIGH OUTPUT POWER CAPABILITY:
2 x 35W max./4Ω
2 x 32W EIAJ/4Ω
2 x 22W typ./4Ω @ 14.4V, 1KHz, 10%
2 x 19W typ./4Ω @ 13.2V, 1KHz, 10%
2 x 28W typ./2Ω @ 14.4V, 1KHz, 10%
2 x 25W typ./2Ω @ 13.2V, 1KHz, 10%
LOW DISTORTION
LOW OUTPUT NOISE
ST-BY FUNCTION
MUTE FUNCTION
AUTO-MUTE AT MIN. SUPPLY VOLTAGE
DETECTION
LOW EXTERNAL COMPONENT COUNT
– INTERNALLY FIXED GAIN (32dB)
– NO EXTERNAL COMPENSATION
– NO BOOTSTRAP CAPACITORS
ADDITIONAL MONO INPUT
OUTPUT AC/DC SHORT CIRCUIT TO GND
AND TO VS
VERY INDUCTIVE LOADS
OVERRATING CHIP TEMPERATURE WITH
SOFT THERMAL LIMITER

Circuit Diagram:

2 x 32W DUAL BRIDGE CAR RADIO AMPLIFIER

Monday, September 8, 2014

2 x 23 W high efficiency car radio power amplifier

FEATURES:

Low dissipation due to switching from Single-Ended (SE) to Bridge-Tied Load (BTL) mode

High Common Mode Rejection Ratio (CMRR)

Mute/standby/operating/SE-only (mode select pin)

Zero crossing mute and standby circuit

Load dump protection circuit

Short-circuit safe to ground, to supply voltage and across load

Loudspeaker protection circuit

Device switches to single-ended operation at excessive junction temperatures.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION:

The TDA1561Q is a monolithic power amplifier in a 13 lead single-in-line (SIL) plastic power package. It contains two identical 23 W amplifiers. The dissipation is minimized by switching from SE to BTL mode, only when a higher output voltage swing is needed. The device is primarily developed for car radio applications.

Circuit Diagram:

2 x 23 W high efficiency car radio power amplifier

Datasheet for TDA1561Q: Download

Monday, September 1, 2014

A Car Battery Monitor Wiring diagram Schematic

A close call on the road can really focus your mind on the importance of having a battery monitor in a car. I had been enjoying a pleasant week of travelling around the countryside at a leisurely pace and taking in the beautiful scenery each day. It wasnt until the final day, with the big rush to return home, that I had to drive at night.My home is deep in the country and on the road I was travelling the closest petrol station may be 80km away. I was travelling through an area that is full of open-cut coal mines and large heavily loaded semi-trailers constantly pound the roads, travelling at quite high speeds. It was around 8pm at night and everything was very dark no street lights or house lights anywhere.

Just as I was going up a hill, the lights began to dim and the engine coughed. A large semi-trailer loomed in the rear-vision mirror as I pushed the clutch in and tried to restart. My speed was falling rapidly and my lights were blacked out - I was like a sitting duck in the middle of the road, as the semi-trailer came rapidly bearing down on me. I just managed to pull the car off the road, as the semi-trailer came screaming past, missing me by inches! After calling for assistance from the NRMA, the problem was found to be a fault in the alternator, which was failing to charge the battery. The battery voltage had been falling under the heavy load of the lights and at the worst possible time, there was not sufficient power for the lights or the motor.

After the initial shock wore off, I put on my thinking cap to come up with a PIC-based solution to the problem. What was really needed was a display and a buzzer, to get my attention should the voltage fall outside a specified range. So my design criteria was set, a series of LEDs could indicate the voltage and a buzzer would also be used to warn of problems.

Main Features:

Visual indication of battery voltage
Audible warning when voltage becomes low
Screw terminals for easy connection
Simple and easy to build

Circuit details:

The schema is based on PIC16F819 18-pin microcontroller which has an analog-to-digital (A/D) input to monitor the battery voltage and outputs capable of driving LEDs directly, to keep the component count down. There are seven LEDs in all, giving a good range of voltage indication. The topmost LED, LED1, comes on for voltages above 14V which will occur when the battery is fully charged. LED2 indicates for voltages between 13.5V and 14V while LED3 indicates between 13V and 13.5V. Normally, one of these LEDs will be on. LED4 covers 12.5V to 13V while LED5 covers 12V to 12.5V. LED6 covers from 11.5V to 12V while LED7 comes on for voltages below 11.5V. These two LEDs are backed up by the piezo chime which beeps for voltages between 11.5V and 12V and becomes more insistent for voltages below 11.5V.

That might seem fairly conservative. After all, most cars will start with no troubles, even though the battery voltage might be a touch below 12V, wont they? Well, no. Some modern cars will happily crank the motor at voltages below 11V but their engine management will not let the motor start unless the voltage is above 11V. So dont think that a modern car will always start reliably. This little battery monitor could easily prevent a very inconvenient failure to start! So lets describe the rest of the schema. The incoming supply is connected via diode D1 which provides protection against reverse polarity while zener diode ZD1 provides protection from spike voltages.

A standard 7805 3-terminal regulator is then used to provide a stable 5V to the microcontroller. The battery voltage is sensed via a voltage divider using 33kΩ and 100kΩ resistors. This brings the voltage down to within the 0-5V range for the A/D input of the PIC16F819. Port B (RB0 to RB7) of the microcontroller is then used to drive the various LEDs, with current limiting provided via the 330Ω resistor network. RB7, pin 13, drives a switching transistor for the piezo buzzer.

Software:

For the software, the design follows the basic template for a PIC microcontroller. Port A and its ADC (analog-to-digital converter) function are set up while port B functions as the output for the LEDs and buzzer. Once the set-up is complete, a reading will be taken at port RA2, the input for the A/D convertor. This reading is then compared with a series of values to determine the range of the voltage. This is similar to a series of "if" statements in Basic language. If the voltage is found to be within a certain range, the relevant port B pin will be turned on. If the voltage is below 12V, the buzzer will be turned on for a brief period, to signal a low battery condition. As the voltage falls below 11.5V, the frequency of the beeps will increase, to signal increased urgency.

Building it:

All the parts are mounted on a small PC board measuring 46 x 46mm (available from Futurlec). The starting point should be the IC socket for the PIC16F819, as this is easiest to mount while the board is bare. The next item can be the PC terminal block. The resistors and capacitors can then follow. Make sure the electrolytics are inserted with correct polarity.

Make sure that you do not confuse the zener (ZD1) with the diode when you are installing them; the diode is the larger package of the two.

Even more important, dont get the 78L05 3-terminal regulator and the 2N3906 transistor mixed up; they come in identical packages. The 78L05 will be labelled as such while the 2N3906 will be labelled "3906". And make sure you insert them the correct way around. The buzzer must also be installed with the correct polarity. The 330Ω current limiting resistors are all in a 10-pin in-line package. There are four green LEDs, two yellow and one red. They need to be installed in line and with the correct orientation.

Testing:

Before you insert the PIC16F819 microcontroller, do a voltage check. Connect a 12V source and check for the presence of 5V between pins 14 & 5 OF IC1. If 5V is not present, check the polarity of regulator REG1 and the polarity of the diode D1. If these tests are OK, insert the IC and test the unit over a range of voltage between 9V and 15V. Make sure that all LEDs come on in sequence and the piezo buzzer beeps for voltages below 12V.

Now it is matter of installing the unit in your car. It is preferable to install the unit in a visible position for the driver. However, it should not obscure any other instruments. The unit should be connected to the cars 12V supply after the ignition switch. This will turn the unit off with the other instruments and prevent battery drain while the motor is not running.

Author :Alan Bonnard

Saturday, August 30, 2014

CAR GPS NAVIGATION SYSTEMS PRODUCTS

Do you find that you have a lot of speeding tickets? Maybe you even have trouble remembering where to reduce your speed? There are of course many ways to solve your problems. Even if you don’t have speeding problems you probably find you have navigation problems when you are in a new area of the city. Undetected is just one company that offers satellite navigation and speed camera detectors. If you are interested in GPS satellite navigation you should check out the products available and compare pricing.

Undetected offers you a range of products including a dual satellite navigation system and speed camera. These units will help you navigate the city as well as reduce you speeding tickets, traffic violation fines, and traffic accidents. The Indic8tor is one of the latest GPS satellite navigation systems.

This GPS will warn you when you enter a new speed zone, aid you in safe driving, and give you voice alerts. The voice will allow you to know when you are exceeding the limits as well as offer guidance. Another GPS navigation system is the Snooper S3 GPS. This GPS stores geographical coordinates and even tells you of "black spots" on the road. A black spot is usually considered an area where a lot of accidents happen. The Snooper S3 GPS will compare your position with a GPS antenna to give you the most up to date information on speeds and accident spots.

There are many other GPS navigation systems available and tips on how to use them. You will want to understand the laws of your area as well as how these systems can help you reduce accidents or violations. Undetected will offer you information about the law as well as facts about the products they sell to help you find the best product for your vehicle.

Q Logic Car Audio Sub Enclosures

The advancements being made for getting the maximum output out of your speakers is to the peak. The subwoofers, the component or full-range systems and especially enclosure are here to bring out the most out of your stereo system fitted in the car.

The component speakers that have separate tweeters, crossovers etc giving each part of your speaker to play to its fullest while full-range speakers are easy to install and not all bad. The subwoofers that are responsible for the bass production while enclosures that play dually in the favor of your speakers. Firstly, to avoid any unwanted noise and secondly to keep your speakers away from dirt and dust.

All the equipment installed in your car to play tracks through your stereo system is individually important. Component speakers or full-range speakers are there in your car to play your favorite tracks while doing justice to all the tunes. Naturally, the more you spend the more you are going to get a great result while there are some tips and tricks that can boost up sound production of your speakers at the same time as subwoofers are there to emphasis on bass. Baffles and foam placed between your speakers has great importance as well as they make sure the body of the car and speakers to not bump into each other all the time and producing noises that will be irritating to the ears. Enclosures that are box shaped to place your speaker’s in. the main function of these enclosures is to produce sound that is accurate and tight while they keep your speakers safe from dirt, prolonging their life.

The two kinds of enclosures that can be found in the market are sealed and ported enclosures. Like the name suggests, sealed enclosures are air tight making sure no air leaves or enters the box while ported enclosures have holes in front of the box to equalize pressure within and outside the box. This enclosure may increase the efficiency but the sound production is less accurate and tight than the sealed enclosure. The only thing that matter is that the different manufacturing of these enclosures do really make a difference in the sound production. If you want an enclosure for your speakers then Qlogic car audio enclosures is the best. Their carpeting around the box makes sure it keeps your speakers away from dirt while the box itself maximizes the productivity level. Now keeping in mind the importance and role played by the enclosures, these things come with the speakers themselves although you can pick from one of the types mentioned above according to your own taste and requirement. Sealed enclosures are actually easier to make yourself and produce sound that it should while ported are way complicated and do not have more fans. Qlogic also offers every other car audio accessories to jazz up your stereo system.

The thing that attracts every customer to purchase Qlogic car audio equipment is as they are way much cheaper with warranty and result that will make you its fan. The shipping for this product is very cheap than the rest of the electronic devices. The carpeting of Qlogic looks like they are made not just to play but to look good as well. The stylish styles and boxes will dazzle up your car interior as well. You can purchase this product from the links listed below.

http://www.qlogicenclosures.com/

http://www.crutchfield.com/

http://www.carstereoworld.com/

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/

Friday, August 29, 2014

Car battery charger

Given below, is a very simple schema that can be used for charging car batteries. In this schema there is facility for monitoring the charging current and voltage.

The schema is based on the IC MC78T12ABT from Freescale.The IC is nothing but a 7812 in TO-3 package with 3A capacity. The transformer T1 steps the mains voltage to 15V AC and diodes D1&D2 does the job of rectification. Capacitor C1 does the filtering and C2 acts as a decoupling capacitor. The ground terminal of IC1 is lifted to 2.1V using the diodes D3 , D4 and D5 . So the output from the IC1 will be a regulated 14.1V (12+2.1).The battery is charged via diode D6.The D6 blocks reverse flow of current from battery to charging schema when the mains power is not available. Meter M1 shows the charging current and M2 shows the charging voltage.

Notes.

* The transformer T1 can be a 230V primary; 15-0-15V, 3A secondary step down transformer.
* The meter M1 can be a 3A ammeter.
* Meter M2 can be a 20V volt meter.
* Fuse F1 can be a 1A fuse.

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Basic devices in the car audio system

Entertainment in the form of music, news or even movies, generated from a series of audio devices found in a car. The series device known as a car audio system.

What tool or device contained in car audio system?

Car Head Unit - Head unit is the core of a car audio system, part of the car audio system that plays sound. The continued development of technology makes the head unit is no longer only serve as a radio receiver FM / AM CD player and a player, some have additional functions to be able to play MP3s. There is also a car head unit that has the ability to play DVDs complete with monitors and can be connected with IPOD.
Power Amplifier - The function of the power amplifier is to amplify the signal coming out of the head unit. In the world of various types of car audio power amplifiers are divided into several classes, such as class A, B, AB, and D. Each class power amplifier has the advantage that its usefulness can be tailored to our needs in building a car audio system. In addition to class division, the division of power amplifiers can also be seen from the number of channels (channels) and the amount of power generated by the power amplifier.
Speaker - A device that functions convert electronic signals into audible sound. The speakers were divided into several parts / components, namely, subwoofers, woofers, mid-range, and tweeter. In order for speakers to work properly, required a series of electronic components that serves as a filter (cross over).
Processor - With advances in technology processors play a significant role in a car system. Inside there is a processor features like time correction, cross-over-active, etc. equalizer. With the functions it will be very easy at the time of tuning car audioaudio system.

Sunday, August 24, 2014

Simple 15V And 5V Car Battery Supply Wiring diagram Schematic

This is a Simple 15V And 5V Car Battery Supply Circuit Diagram. In this schema use IC1 is a switching regulator that generates a 45-kHz signal that drives the gate of MOSFET Ql. Dl, D2, and D3 are Schottky diodes. The 5-V output is sensed as a reference; feedback to the chip turns off the gate signal to Ql if the voltage rises above 5 V.

Tl has Trifilar windings that assume about 2% regulation for a 10-to 100-mA load change on the Â± 15-V supplies. R1/D4 provide over-voltage protection. Tl has a primary inductance of about 21 . Core size should allow 4-A peak currents. The turn ratios are IIV2 turns each for the 15-V supplies, ll1/2 turns for the primary, and four turns for the 5-V secondary. The efficiency is about 75%.

Simple 15V And 5V Car Battery Supply Circuit Diagram

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Install car stereo satellite radio

How to install car stereo satellite radio without professional help.

Hooking up your satellite radio in your car is easy and there are several methods to go about it. The positives of doing this are that you do not have to pay someone to hook the system up and you often get similar quality results to those of professional installation. The obvious downside is that the aesthetics of the results may not be that desirable.

The four ways suggested here to get satellite radio in your car are: Through your stereo’s input jack, through your car stereo’s tape player, via an FM modulated transmitter, and through a portable stereo’s input Jack. The sections on powering your receiver, the antenna, running the antenna wire, and mounting the receiver are universal in all installations.

If you have selected a satellite radio provider and a satellite radio receiver, you are on your way. If you have not selected a satellite radio provider, you should search the Internet and visit the consumer electronics shops in your area. The content of the two satellite radio providers is slightly different and you may want to choose the one more suited to your tastes. The satellite provider you choose also will determine the receiver that you will be able to use. These receivers come in all shapes and price range and should definitely factor in your decision. Also, whether you want to use the installation advice here depends on the receiver you choose. Some retailers will provide free installation with a purchase over a certain amount; it is advisable to look into these deals where they exist.

Powering your receiver:
Your receiver will require some sort of input power. Usually, it is 12V DC. Check on the back of your receiver and then check at your local consumer electronics store for a cigarette lighter adapter. This will cost around $20.

The antenna:
It may be helpful just to buy the car adapter kit for your receiver. For most models this costs around $50. As strange as it sounds, there is a difference between your home antenna and your car antennae. An antenna designed for the car will invariably get better reception. You can, if you are set on the idea, try your home antenna and you may get good results. Antennas designed for the car often come with magnetic backings to facilitate installation. The car adapter kit is a good idea and it may come with other useful accessories. You have to make sure that the kit you buy matches your receiver.

Running the antenna wire:
Running the antenna wire is the most painstaking part of the installation. First, you need to decide where you want to mount the antenna and receiver. If you choose to mount the antenna inside under a window, you can expect to have reduced reception. Satellite radio will cut out normally under large bridges. Mounting the antenna inside will worsen this problem and may even cause cutouts on tree lined roads and mountainous canyons that would not normally cause a problem if the antenna were mounted outside. Where you live may factor into this decision. If you live in an urban area with large buildings, in the mountains or in a place with heavy forests, you will almost certainly need to mount the antenna outside the car. If you live among the wheat fields of the mid-west, you may be able to get away with mounting the antenna inside the car, but you will almost certainly have to place it under the window.

To run the wire, you can wedge the wire under the trim around doors and under seats. Be creative, your car is full of plastic pockets that have enough void space to hold the wire. Make sure that when the wire is run from the outside of the car to the inside that there are no sharp edges that will cut the wire. Also, it is necessary to leave enough slack if you mount the antenna on a moving exterior surface like a trunk. It may be, in some areas advisable to buy zip ties or use old garbage bag ties to hold the wire where the slack may get in the way. Often left over wire can be tucked into a void under a plastic cover. It is important that the wire in no way impedes your ability to operate the vehicle and it should not come into contact with heat elements such as those found in heated seats or ventilation ducts.

Attaching the receiver:
Some of the car adapter kits come with suction cups and other methods for mounting the receiver. Many times, these methods simply do not work. Depending on how much you value the interior of your car will determine how you want to mount the receiver. Preferably, you will want it close at hand and easily operable without distracting your attention from operating the motor vehicle. One method is to simply place the receiver in any available cavity in your dashboard. A second preferred method that may leave lasting marks on your dash is to install the receiver with adhesive Velcro. They sell this at any hardware store and in the tools section of your local discount retailer. This also allows you to remove the receiver when changing channels.

Connecting through your car’s input jack:
Check the front of your car’s stereo to see if there is an input jack. If one exists, check the owner’s manual (if you do not have it chances are it is available online) and go to your local consumer electronics store to find the cables you need. Simply power the receiver, plug it to the antenna and plug it to the front of your stereo. Congratulations, you have the easiest method of retrofitting your car with satellite radio. You are the envy of those who have to read on.

Connecting through your car’s tape deck:
This requires the purchase of an approximately $15 item that can be bought at any consumer electronics store. It looks like a tape that has a wire coming from the corner. This item can be handy because it can be used not only with your satellite radio receiver, but also with almost all of your other consumer electronics such as an iPod, your cell phone, or a portable DVD player. You may not love it, but your kids will when you have a Bug’s life jamming through your car’s stereo system.

FM Modulated transmitter:
This isn’t cheap. Generally, they are as hard to install as a car stereo. Also, if your car stereo doesn’t have a tape deck or an input, it may be advisable to either by a new stereo with free installation, or go with the portable stereo option below. But, if you love your current stereo and have a spare $200 and an afternoon give this option a try. How it works is the satellite receiver is plugged into a FM transmitter that broadcasts at low power just to your car stereo. So you can tune into a station like 88.5 FM and hear your satellite radio. You will have to follow the instructions that come with the FM modulator kit because they come in all shapes and sizes. Too detailed for a short introductory article.

Use a portable stereo:
This is the ultimate in going on the cheap. If you do not have a stereo that has a working tape deck or input jack and do not want to shell out the extra cash for a new stereo, this is the option for you. First you need to acquire a portable stereo with input jacks. Having done that, you will need to power it. You will need to research what kind of power source it needs. If it has a 12 V DC input, you are in business. Just use a cigarette lighter adapter like the one mentioned in powering your receiver. If it takes 120V AC (the most common) you can find adapters that will do that for you at your local automotive part store. Once you have powered the stereo, the receiver and hooked up the antenna you just have to make sure you do not trip over the wires. It might also be helpful to have a friend operate this contraption, as it may be difficult to do yourself in a moving vehicle.

Monday, August 18, 2014

2 x 6W CAR RADIO AMPLIFIER PLUS SOLID STATE SWITCH TDA7365

General Description

OUTPUT POWER 2x6W/4Ω @14.4V, 1KHz, 10%
SOLID STATE POWER SWITCH INCLUDED (1A @ VDROP = 0.8V Typ.)
MINIMUM EXTERNAL COMPONENT COUNT
- INTERNALLY FIXED GAIN (40dB)
- NO BOOTSTRAP CAPACITORS
- NO EXTERNAL COMPENSATION
ST-BY FUNCTION (CMOS COMPATIBLE)
MUTE FUNCTION (CMOS COMPATIBLE)
NO AUDIBLE POP DURING MUTE/ST-BY
OPERATIONS
LOW SUPPLY SELF MUTING
PROTECTIONS
AC AUDIO OUTPUTS SHORT CIRCUIT TO GND
DC AUDIO OUTPUTS SHORT CIRCUIT TO
GND AND TO VS AT POWER ON
SWITCH OUTPUT INTERNAL CURRENT LIMITATION
OVERRATING CHIP TEMPERATURE WITH
SOFT THERMAL LIMITER
LOAD DUMP
FORTUITOUS OPEN GND

Circuit diagram:

2 x 6W CAR RADIO AMPLIFIER PLUS SOLID STATE SWITCH