Showing posts with label pump. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pump. Show all posts

Friday, November 7, 2014

Solar Hot Water Panel Differential Pump Controller

This circuit optimises the circulation of heated water from solar hot water panels to a storage cylinder. It achieves this by controlling a 12V DC pump, which is switched on at a preset temperature differential of 8°C and off at about 4°C. This method of control has distinct advantages over some systems that run the pump until the differential approaches 0°C. In such systems, the pump typically runs whenever the sun shines. A small 10W solar panel charging a 12V SLA battery is sufficient to run the controller. Most commercial designs use 230VAC pumps, which of course don’t work when there is a power outage or there is no AC power at the site.

 
Operation:
Temperature sensors TS1 & TS2 are positioned to measure the highest and lowest water temperatures, with one at the panel outlet and the other at the base of the storage cylinder. The difference between the sensor outputs is amplified by op amp IC1d, which is configured for a voltage gain of about 47. As the sensors produce 10mV/°C, a difference of 8°C will produce about 3.76V at the op amp’s output (pin 14). The output from IC1d is fed into the non-inverting input (pin 10) of a second op amp stage (IC1c), which is wired as a voltage comparator. The op amp’s inverting input (pin 9) is tied to a reference voltage, which can be varied by trimpot VR3. When the voltage from IC1d exceeds the reference voltage, the output of the comparator (pin 8) swings towards the positive rail.

A 10MW resistor feeds a small portion of the output signal back to the non-inverting input, adding some hysteresis to the circuit to ensure positive switching action. A third op amp stage (IC1b) acts as a unity-gain buffer. When the comparator’s output goes high, the buffer stage switches the Mosfet (Q1) on, which in turn energises the pump motor. Mosfet Q1’s low drain-source on-state resistance means that in most cases, it won’t need to be mounted on a heatsink. The prototype uses a Davies Craig EBP 12V magnetic drive pump, which draws about 1A when running and is suitable for low-pressure hot water systems only (don’t use it for mains-pressure systems as it may burst!). For mains-pressure systems, the author suggests the SID 10 range of brass-body magnetic drive pumps from Ivan Labs USA.


Solar Hot Water Panel Differential Pump Controller Circuit Diagram
Setup:
Each LM335 temperature sensor and its associated trimpot is glued to a small copper strip using high-temperature epoxy. It is then waterproofed with silicon sealant and encapsulated in heatshrink tubing. Standard twin-core shielded microphone cable can be used for the connection to the circuit board. Before sealing the two units, adjust their trimpots to get 2.98V at 25°C [(ambient temperature x .01) + 2.73V] between the "+" and "-" terminals. When both have been adjusted, clamp them together and allow their temperatures to stabilise for a few minutes. Next, measure the output voltage from the differential amplifier (IC1d), which should be close to 0V. If not, tweak one of the pots until it is.

Separate the two and warm the panel sensor (TS1), monitoring the output of IC1d. You should see a marked increase in voltage, remembering that an 8°C difference between the sensors should give an output of about 3.76V. The pump switch-on point is set by VR3 and can be adjusted over a practical range of about 4-10°C differential (1.88-4.70V). Adjust VR3 to get about 3.8V on pin 9 of IC1c as a starting point. If set too low and the panels are located far from the cylinder, much of the heat will be lost in the copper connecting pipes. On the other hand, if set too high and the weather is mostly cloudy, then the pump will not switch on very often, as the panels will not get hot enough. For best results, use copper pipes for the panel plumbing and insulate them with tubes of closed-cell foam.

As the pipes cool down between pump operations, small diameter pipes of 15mm are more efficient than larger sizes as they contain less static water. In practice, the pump in the author’s setup switches on for about 30 seconds every 4-5 minutes. As the Davies pump shifts 13 litres/minute, it displaces the heated water from a single panel in about 14 seconds. There is a thermal lag in the sensor readings, so after the pump stops, the temperature difference will keep decreasing for 40 seconds or so as the panel sensor cools down and the cylinder sensor heats up.
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Friday, August 22, 2014

Pump it up Mp3 Booster

MP3 players are all the rage these days. The smaller ones in memory-stick format are particularly easy to take with you; your very own ‘personal sound system’ on the move! It’s when you want others to share your taste in music that you find these players to have a lack of power. You can get round this problem with the help of the MP3 booster, a small amplifier that can be used to connect your MP3 player directly to your Hi-Fi. When you next invite your friends to a party you can ask them to bring their ‘personal music’ as well as the usual drinks!

But first we have to build this booster! The small battery-powered players have an output signal that is more than sufficient to drive a set of 32 Ohm headphones. You’ll often find that with an output of 1mW the sound pressure level (SPL) produced can reach up to 90 dB. This would be sufficient to cause permanent damage to your hearing after only one hour! The maximum output voltage will then be around 200mV. This, however, is insufficient to fully drive a power amplifier. For this you’ll need an extra schema that boosts the output voltage.

Power amps usually require 1 V for maximum output, hence the signal has to be amplified by a factor of five. We will also have to bear in mind that quieter recordings may need to be amplified even more. We’ve used a simple method here to select the gain, which avoids the use of potentiometers. After all, the MP3 player already has its own volume control. We decided to have two gain settings on the booster, one of three times and the other ten times. Amplifiers IC1A and IC1B (for the right and left channels) are housed in a single package, a TS922IN.

The output signal of the MP3 player is fed via a stereo cable and socket K1 to the inputs of the amplifiers. The gain depends on the relationship between resistors R2 and R1 (R6 and R5 for the other channel) and is equal to ten times. When you add jumper JP1 (JP2), resistor R3 (R7) will be connected in parallel with the negative feedback resistor R1 (R6), which causes the gain to be reduced to about three. When you start using the booster you can decide which gain setting works best for you.

Circuit diagram:
MP3 Booster Circuit Diagram

Resistor R4 (R8) takes the amplified MP3 signal to the output socket K2 (K3). A cable then connects these phono sockets to the input of your power amplifier. The resistors connected in series with the output (R4 and R8) are there to keep the booster stable when a long cable is connected to its output. Cables have an unwelcome, parasitic capacitance. This capacitive effect could (due to phase shifts of the signal) affect the negative feedback of the booster in such a way that a positive feed back occurs, with the result that the booster oscillates and possibly damages the power amplifier!

The resistors (R4 and R8) effectively isolate the output of the booster from the parasitic capacitance of the output cable. They also protect the booster outputs from short diagram. We’ve used a TS922IN opamp in this booster because it can operate at very low supply voltages (the maximum is only 12 V!), but can still output a reasonable current (80 mA max.). For the supply we’ve used rechargeable batteries (e.g. NiCd or NiMH cells) so that we don’t need a mains supply.

To keep the number of cells required as small as possible, we’ve chosen a supply voltage of 5 volt; this can be supplied by four rechargeable batteries. It is also possible to use four ordinary, non-rechargeable batteries; it’s true that the supply voltage then becomes a bit higher (6 Volts), but that won’t cause any harm. Since we’ve used a symmetrical supply for the booster (2 x 2 batteries), it will be easiest if you use two separate battery holders, each with two AA cells. The two holders are connected in series.

Make sure that the batteries are connected the right way round; the positive of one always has to be connected to the negative of the next. This also applies to the connection between the two battery holders. S1A/B is a double pole switch, which is used to turn both halves of the battery supply on or off simultaneously. If you can’t find the (dual) opamp we’ve used (or an equivalent), you could always use standard opamps such as the NE5532, TL082 or TL072. These do need a higher supply voltage to operate properly. In these cases you should use two 9 V batteries and replace resistor R9 with a 15 kΩ one.

Do take care when you connect the schema to your power amplifier because the output signal can be a lot larger and you could overload the power amplifier. (Although you’re more likely to damage the loudspeakers, rather than the amplifier!) (Please note that these two 9 V batteries can’t be used as a supply for the TS922IN!) In our schema we’ve used a stereo jack socket for the input and phono sockets for the output because these are the most compatible with MP3 players and power amplifiers respectively. If you wanted to, you could solder shielded cables directly to the schema instead, with the correct plugs on the ends. You’ll never find yourself without the correct connection leads in that case!

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